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THE

TRAVELS AND RESEARCHES

ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT,

W. MACGILLIVRAY, LL.D., F.R.S.'E.,

Professor of Natural History in Marischal College and University of Aberdeen.

WITH A NARRATIVE

HUMBOLDT'S MOST RECENT RESEARCHES,

INXLUDING

HIS CELEBRATED JOUBNET TO THE URAL MOLTS'TAIN'S,

AND THE CASPIAN SEA, ETC.

LONDON:

T. NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW;

EDINBURGH ; AND NEW YORK.

KSIVERSn Y OV CALIFORNH 6AM A BAHBAilA

PREFACE.

The celebrity which Baron Humboldt enjoys, and which he has earned by a life of laborious investigation and perilous enterprise, renders his name familiar to eveiy person whose attention has been drawn to political statistics or natural philosophy. In the estimation of the learned no author of the present day occupies a higher place among those who have enlarged the boundai'ies of human knowledge. To every one accord- ingly whose aim is the general cultivation of the mental faculties, his works are recommended by the splendid pictures of scener}'- which they contain, the diversified information which they afford respecting objects of uni- versal interest, and the graceful attractions with which he has succeeded in investing the majesty of science.

These considerations have induced the Publishers to offer a condensed account of his Travels and Researches, such as, without excluding subjects even of laboured investigation, might yet chiefly embrace those which are best suited to the purposes of the general reader. The public taste has of late years gradually inclined towards objects of useful knowledge, — works of imagi- nation have in a great measure given place to those occupied with descriptions of nature, physical or moral, — and the phenomena of the material world now afford entertainment to many who in former times would have sought for it at a different source. Romantic incidents, perilous adventures, the struggles of conflicting armies,

6 PHEFACE.

and vivid delineations of national manners and indivi- dual character, naturally excite a lively interest in every bosom, whatever may be the age or sex ; but, surely, the great focts of creative power and wisdom, as exhibited in regions of the globe of which they have no personal knowledge, are not less calculated to iix the attention of all reflecting minds. The magnificent vegetation of the tropical regions, displaying forests of gigantic trees, interspersed with the varied foliage of in- numerable shrubs, and adorned with festoons of climbing and odoriferous plants ; the elevated table-lands of the Andes, crowned by volcanic cones, whose summits shoot high into the region of perennial snow ; the earthquakes that have desolated populous and fertile countries ; the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean, with its circling currents ; and the varied aspect of the heavens in those distant lands, — are subjects suited to the taste of every individual who is capable of contemplatmg the wonder- ful machinery of the universe.

It is unnecessiiry here to present an analysis of the labours of the illustrious philosopher whose footsteps are traced in this volume. Suffice it to observe, that some notices respecting his early life introduce the reader to an acquaintance with his character and motives, as the adventurous traveller, who, crossing the Atlantic, tra- versed the ridges and plains of Venezuela, ascended the Qrinoco to its junction with the Amazon, sailed down the former river to the capital of Guiana, and after examining the Island of Cuba mounted by the valley of the Magdalen a to the elevated platforms of the Andes, explored the majestic solitudes of the great Cordilleras of Quito, navigated the margin of the Pacific Ocean, and wandered over the extensive and interesting provinces of New Spain, wjience he made his way back by tliQ

PREFACE. 7

United States to Europe. The publication of the im- portant results of this journey was not completed when he undertook another to Asiatic Russia and the confines of China, from which he has but lately returned.

From the various works which he has given to the world have been derived the chief materials of this nar- rative ; and, when additional particulars were wanted , application was made to M. de Humboldt himself, who kindly pointed out the sources whence the desired in- formation might be obtained. The life of a man of letters, he justly observed, ought to be sought for in his books ; and for this reason little has been said respecting his occupations during the intervals of repose which have succeeded his perilous journeys.

It is only necessary further to apprize the reader, that the several measurements, the indications of the ther- mometer, and the value of articles of industry or commerce, which in the original volumes are expressed according to French, Spanish, and Russian usage, have been reduced to English equivalents.

Finally, the Publishers, confident that this abridged account of the travels of Humboldt will prove beneficial in diflFusing a knowledge of the researches of that eminent naturalist, and in leading to the study of those phenomena which present themselves daily to the eye, send it forth with a hope that its reception will be as favourable and extensive as that bestowed upon its predecessors.

Edinburgh, October 1832.

This edition of Professor Macgillivray's valuable narrative of the journey and researches of Baron Humboldt, is now ex- tended so as to embrace his more recent labours, including his celebrated journey to the Ural Mountains, and his explora-

8 PREFACE.

tion of the Altaiau range, and tlie Caspian Sea. It also em- braces a sketch of the profound philosophical speculations sug- gested by the phenomena observed in the Asiatic continent, and published to the world both in his " Central Asia," and his more recent " Kosinos."

Enlarged as this work now is by such necessary and valu^ able additions, the publisher confidently anticipates for it a still more favourable reception, and extended popularity, than it commanded in its original form,

ECLXBL'ROll. June IS^L

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODDCTIOX.

Birth and Education of Humboldt — His early Occupations—He resolves to visit At'rica— Is disappointed in his Views, and goes to Madrid, where he is introduced to the Kin^, and obtains Per- mission to visit the Spanish Colonies — Observations made on the Journey through Spain — Geological Constitution of the Country between Madrid and Corunna — Climate — Ancient Submersion of the Shores of the Mediterranean— Reception at Corunna, and Preparations for the Voyage to South America, Page 17

CHAPTER II.

VOYAGE FROM CORUNNA TO TENERIFFE.

Departure from Corunna — Currents of the Atlantic Ocean — Ma- rine Animals — Falling Stars — Swallows — Canary Islands — Lan- cerota — Fucus vitifolius — Causes of the Green Colour of Plants — La Graciosa — Stratified Basalt alternating with Marl — Hya- lite— Quartz Sand — Remarks on the Distance at which Mountains are visible at Sea, and the Causes by which it is modified— Land- ing at TenerifFe, 24

CHAPTER TIL

ISLAND OF TENERIFFE.

Santa Cruz — Villa de la Laguna — Guanches — Present Inhabitants of TenerifFe — Climate — Scener}' of the Coast — Orotava — Dragon- tree — Ascent of the Peak — Its Geological Character — Eruptions — Zones of Vegetation — Fires of St John, 37

10 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV.

PASSAGE FROM TENERIFFE TO CUMANA.

Departure from Santa Cruz— Floatinjr Seaweeds— Flying-fish— Stars — Mali^mant Fever— Island of Tobajjo— Death of a Pas-

sen^r Island of Coclie— Port of Cumana — Observations made

durinj^ the Voyage; Temperature of the Air; Temperature of the Sea ; Hygrometrical State of the Air ; Colour of the Sky and Ocean, Paj^e 40

CHAPTER V.

Landing at Cumana — Introduction to the Governor — State of the Sick — Description of the Country and Citj' of Cumana — Mode of Bathing in the Manzanares — Port of Cumana — Earthquakes ; Their Periodicity ; Connexion with the State of the Atmosphere; Gaseous Emanations ; Subterranean Noises ; Propagation of Sliocks ; Connexion between those of Cumana and the West In- dies ; and General Phenomena, CO

CHAPTER VI.

RESIDENCE AT CUMANA.

Lunar Halo— African Slaves — Excursion to the Peninsula of Araya — Geological Constitution of the Country — Salt-works of Araya — Indians and Muiattoes — Pearl-fishery — Maniquarez Mexi- can Deer— Spring of Naphtha, 68

CHAPTER VII.

MISSIONS OF THE CHAYMAS.

Kzcursion to the Missions of the Cliayma Indians— Remarks on Cultivation— Tlie Impossible— Aspect of the Vegetation San

COM'EMS. J 1

Fernando — Account of a Man who suckled a Child — Curaanacoa — Cultivation of Tobacco — lyneous Exhalations — Jaguars — Mountain of Cocollar — Turimi(juiri — Missions of San Antonio and Guanaguana, Page 75

CHAPTER Vlir,

EXCtTHSION CONTINUED, AND RETURN TO CUMANA.

Convent of Caripe — Cave of Guacharo, inhabited by Noctinnal Birds— Purgatory — Forest Scenery — Howling Monkeys — Vera Cruz — Cariaco — Intermittent Fevers — Cocoa-trees — Passage across the Gulf of Cariaco to Cumana, i)7

CHAPTER IX.

INDIANS or NEW ANDALUSIA.

Physical Constitution and Manners of tlie Chaymas — Their Lan- guages— American Races, it?

CHAPTER X.

RESIDENCE AT CUJIANA.

Residence at Cumana— Attack of a Zambo— Eclipse of the Sun — Extraordinary Atmospherical Phenomena — Shocks of an Earth- quake— Luminous Meteors, •1^''

CHAPTER XL

VOYAGE FR03I CUMANA TO GUAYRA-

Passage from Cumana to La Guayra— PhospLorescence of the Sea- Group of the Caraccas and Chimanas— Port of New Barcelona- La Guayra— Yellow fever— Coast and Cape Blanco— Road irom La Guayra to Caraccas, ''"'

12 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

CITY OF CARACCAS AND SURROUNDING DISTRICT.

City of Caraccas — General View of Venezuela — Population — Cli- mate— Character of the Inhabitants of Caraccas — Ascent of the Silla— Geological Nature of the District, and the Mines,.. Page 12.5

CHAPTER XIII.

EARTHQUAKES OF CARACCAS.

Extensive Connexion of Earthquakes — Eruption of the Volcano of St Vincent's— Eartliquake of the 2()lh Marcli 1812— Destruc- tion of the City — Ten Tliousand of the Inhabitants killed. — Con- sternation of the Survivors — Extent of the Commotions, 13

CHAPTER XIV.

JOURNEY FROM CARACCAS TO THE LAKE OF VALENCIA.

Departure frnm Caraccas — La Biienavista — Valleys of San Pedro and the Tuy — Manterola — Zamang-tree — Valleys of Aragua — I ake of Valencia — Diminution of its Waters — Hot Springs — Jaguar — New Valencia — Thermal Waters of La Trincliera — Porto Cahcllo — Cow-tree — Cocoa-plantations — General View of the Littoral District of Venezuela, 144

CHAPTER XV.

JOURNEY ACROSS THE LLANOS FROM ARAGUA TO SAN KEH.S'ANDO.

Mountains hclwcen the Valleys of Aragua and the Llanos — Their Geological Constitution — The Llanos of Caraccas — Koute over the Savannah to tiie Rio .\pure— Cattle and Deer— Vegetation — CalalK)zo_Gymnoti or Electric Eels— Indian Girl — Alligators and Boas — Arrival at San Fernando de A[)iire, 161

CO.NTENTS. 13

CHAPTER XVI.

VOYAGE DOWN THE IllO APUBE.

San Fernando— Commencement of tlie Rainy Season — Progress nf Atmospherical Phenomena — Cetaceous Animals — Voyaj^e down the Rio Apure — Vegetation and Wild Animals — Crocodiles, Chiguires, and Jaguars— Don Ignacio and Donna liiabella — Water-fowl — Nocturnal Howlings in the Forest — Caribe-fish — Adventure with a Jaguar — Manatees — Mouth of the Rio Apure,." Page 17"»

CHAPTER XVII.

VOYAGE UP THE ORIKOCO.

Ascent of the Orinoco — Port of Encararaada — Traditions of a Uni- versal Deluge — Gathering of Turtles' Eggs — Two Species de- scribed— Mode of collecting the Eggs and of manufacturing the Oil — Probable Number of these Animals on the Orinoco — Deco- rations of the Indians — Encampment of Paraniraa — Height of the Inundations of the Orinoco — Rapids of Tabage, I'JO

CHAPTER XVIII.

VOYAGE UP THE ORINOCO CONTINUED.

Mission of Atures — Epidemic Fevers — Black Crust of Granitic Rocks^Causes of Depopulation of the INlissions — Falls of Apures — Scenery — Anecdote of a Jaguar — Domestic Animals — Wild Man of the Woods — Mosquitoes and other poisonous Insects — Mission and Cataracts of Maypures. — Scenery — Inhabitants — Spice-trees — San Fernando de Atabapo — San Baltasar — The Mother's Rock — Vegetation — Dolphins — San Antonio de Javita — Indians — Elastic Gum — Serpents — Portage of the Pimichin — Arrival at the Rio Negro, a Branch of the Amazon — Ascent ot the Casiquiare, 20P

1 4 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIX.

ROUTE FROM ESMERALDA TO AXGOSTURA.

Mission of Esmeralda — Ciirare Poison — Indians — Dnida Moun- tain —Descent of the Orinoco — Cave of Ataniipe — Raudalito of Carucari — Mission of Uruana'— Character of the Otomacs^ Clav eaten bj- tlie Natives — Arrival at Anj^ostura — The Travel- lers attacked by Kever — Ferocity of the Crocodiles Page 233

CHAPTER XX.

JOURNEV ACROSS THE LLANOS TO NEW BARCELONA.

Departure from Angostura — Village of Cari — Natives — Nevp Bar- celona— Hot Springs — Crocodiles — Passage to Curaana, 246

( IIAPTER XXI.

PASSAGE TO IJAVAXNAH, AND RESIDENCE IN CUBA.

Passage from New Barcelona to Havannah — Description of the latter — Extent of Cuba — Geological Constitution — Vegetation — Climate — Population — Agriculture — Exports — Preparations for joining Captain Baudin's Expedition — Journey to Batabano, and Voyage to Trinidad de Cuba, 254

( IIAPTKH XXII.

VOYAGE IltOM CIBA TO CAHTIIAGENA.

Passage from Trinidad of Cuba to Carthagena — Description of the latter — Village of Turbaco— Air-volcanoes — Preparations for anccnding the Hio Magdalena 2f)4

CONTENTS. 1 5

CHAPTER XXIII.

BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE JOURNEY FROM CARTHAGENA TO QUITO AND MEXICO.

vAscent of the Rio Magdalena — Santa Fe de Bogota — Cataract of Tequendama — Natural Bridges of Icononzo — Passage of Quin- diu — Cargueros — Popaj'an — Quito — Cotopaxi and Chimborazo — Route from Quito to Lima^Guayaquil — Mexico — Guanaxuato — Volcano of Jorullo — Pyramid of Cholula, Page 276

CHAPTER XXIV.

DESCRIPTION OF NEW SPAIN OR MEXICO.

General Description of New Spain or Mexico— Cordilleras — Cli- mates— Mines — Rivers — Lakes — Soil — Volcanoes — Harbours - Population — Provinces — Valley of Mexico, and Description of the Capital — Inundations, and Works undertaken for the Purpose of preventing them, 293

CHAPTER XXV.

STATISTICAI. ACCOUNT OF NEW SPAIN CONTINUED.

Agriculture of Mexico— Banana, Manioc, and Maize— Cereal Plants — Nutritive Roots and Vegetables — Agave Americana — Colonial Commodities — Cattle and Animal Productions, 320

CHAPTER XXVI.

MINES OF NEW SPAIN.

Mining' Districts — Metalliferous Veins and Beds — Geological Re- lations of the Ores — Produce of the Mines — Recapitulation.. .333

J 0 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER xxvrr.

I'ASSAOE FHOM VERA CHUZ TO LLDA AXU PHILADELPHIA, AKD VOYAGE TO EUROPE.

Departure from Mexico — Passage to Havannah and Philadelphia — Return to Europe — Results of tlie Journeys in America,.- Page 342

CHAPTER XXVIII.

JOURNEY IN CENTRAL ASIA.

Qualifications as a Traveller — Great Designs — Invitation by the Emperor of Russia — Uralian Mountains — Ores — Volcanic Phenomena — Geological Observations — The Chinese Frontier — Relations of Plains and Mountain Systems— Depth of the Sea — Climatology — Ethnology — Altaic Mountain Range — Thian Clian — Himalaya System — Lunar Phenomena — Isothermal Zones — Magnetic Currents— Conclusion , S48

ENGRAVINGS.

Portrait of Bauon F. H. A. Humboldt,— 7*0 /ace f/ie

Vignette. N'IGKETTE— Basaltic Rocks and Cascade of Rejila.

DrajTon-tree of Orotava, Pagi- 41!

HtiMilwidl's, Route on the Orinoco, ll."}

.laj^uar, or American Tiger, IIW

Air-volcanoes of Turbaco, 271

Costuraca of the Indians of Mcclioacan, 291

TEAVELS AND EESEAECHES

OF

BARON HUMBOLDT.

CHAPTER I.

Introduction.

Birth and Education of Humboldt — His early Occupations — He resolves to visit Africa— Is disappointed in his Vievrs, and goes to Madrid, where he is introduced to tlie King-, and obtains per- mission to visit the Spanish Colonies — Observations made on the Journey through Spain — Geological Constitution of the Country between Madrid and Corunna — Climate — Ancient Submersion of the Shores of the Mediterranean — Reception at Corunna, and Preparations for the Voyage to South America.

With the name of Humboldt we associate all that is ciiAi' i interesting in the physical sciences. No traveller who soiciuinc has visited remote regions of the globe, for the purpose "ssociutiur of observing the varied phenomena of nature, has added so much to our stock of positive knowledge. While the navigator has explored the coasts of unknown lands, dis- covered islands and shores, marked the depths of the sea, estimated the force of currents, and noted the more ob- vious traits in the aspect of the countries at whix-di lie has touched ; while the zoologist has investigated tlie multiplied forms of animal life, the botanist the diversi- fied vegetation, the geologist the structure and relations of the rocky masses of which the exterior of the earth is composed ; and while each has thus contributed

in HIRTII AND EDUCATION OF HUMBOLDT.

CiiAl'. L to the illiistnUion of the wonderful constitution of our ,.j^.~,~, planet, the distin.suished traveller whose discoveries kiiuwifUije. form the suhject of this volume stands alone, as uniting in himself a knowledge of all these sciences. Geography, meteorology, magnetism, the distribution of heat, the various ilepartmeiits of natural history, together with the affinities of races and languages, the history of na- tions, tiie political constitution of countries, statistics, commerce, and agriculture, — all have received accumu- lated and valuable additions from the exercise of his rare talents. The narrative of no traveller therefore could be more interesting to the man of varied information. But as from a work like that of which the present volume constitutes a jiart subjects strictly scientific must be excluded, unless when they can be treated in a manner intelligible to the public at large, it may here be stated. that many of the investigations, of which we present the results, must be traced in the voluminous works which the author himself has jmblished. At the same Plnn of il.<- time enough will l)e given to gratify the scientific reader ; **"'" and while the narrative of personal adventure, the phe-

noma of tiie ])hysical world, the condition of societies, and the numerous other subjects di^cu;-sed, will afford amu>ement and instruction, let it be remembered, that truths faithfully extracted from tlie Imok of nature are alone calculated to enlarge tiie sjjhere of mental vision ; and that, while fanciful descriptidu is more apt to mis- lead tlian to direct tiie footstej)s of the student, there is reflected from llu' actual examination of tlie material universe a light wlijeh never fails to conduct the mind at once to f-ure knowledge and to pious sentiment. i;lrtii r„-ni>- Frederick Henry Alexiinder Von Humboldt was born nt IJerlin on the 14th of Septemljer 17fi9. He received his academic edneiiti(tn at Gottingen and Frankfort on tlie Oder. In 17'.>0 lie visited Holland and JMigland in' company wiiji .Messrs George Forster and Van Geuns, and in the mine year published his first work, entitled " (JliservHtioiis on tiic Basalts of the Rhine." In IT'JI he went to Fr.yberg to receive the instructions of the

HIS EARLV OCCUPATIONS. 19

celebrated Werner, tlie founder of geological science, chap, l The results of some of his observations in tbe mines of that district were published in ] 793, under tlie title of Specimen F/orce Freibergensis Suhterranece.

Having been appointed assessor of the Council of Assessor- Mines at Berlin in 1792, and afterwards director-gene- siiipof

couiicU of

ral of the mines of the principalities of Baireuth and mines. Anspach in Franconia, he directed his efforts to the for- mation of public establishments in these districts ; and in 1795, he visited part of Ital}^ and Switzerland. His active and comprehensive mind engaged in the study of all the physical sciences ; but the discoveries of Galvani seem at this period to have more particularly attracted his attention. The results of his experiments on animal electricity were published in 1796, with notes by Pro- fessor Blumenbach. In 1795 he had gone to A'ienna, visit to where he remained some time, ardently engaged in the Vienna, study of a fine collection of exotic plants in that city. He travelled through several cantons of Salzburg and Styria with the celebrated Von Buch, but was prevented by the war which then raged in Italy from extending his journey to that country, whither he was anxious to proceed for the purpose of examining the volcanic districts of Naples and Sicily. Accompanied by his -po pans. brother William Von Humboldt and Mr Fischer, he then visited Paris, where he formed an acquaintance with M. Aime Bonpland, a pupil of the school of Medi- cine and Garden of Plants, who afterwards becoming his associate in travel, has greatly distinguished himself by his numerous discoveries in botany.

Humboldt, from his earliest youth, had cherished an Desire to ardent desire to travel into distant regions little known '''^'^' to Europeans, and, having at the age of eighteen re- solved to visit the New Continent, he prepared himself by examining some of the most interesting parts of Europe, that he might be enabled to compare the geo- logical structure of these two portions of the globe, and acquire a practical acquaintance with the instruments best adapted for aiding him in his observations. For-

20

PROPOSES TO VISIT AFRICA.

Pecuniary It-sou rtcs.

Proposed visit to

Egypt.

CHAP. I. tunatc in possessing ample pecuniary resources, he did not experience tlic privations ^vllich have disconcerted the i)hins and retarded the progress of many eminent individuals ; but, not the less subject to unforeseen vicissitudes, he had to undergo several disappointments that thwarted tiie schemes \vhicli, like all men of ardent mind, he had indulged himself in forming. Meeting with a person passionately fond of the fine arts, and anxious to visit Ui)per Egypt, he resolved to accompany liim to that interesting country ; but political events interfered and forced him to ab^mdon the project. The kno\vlcdii:e of the monuments of the more ancient na- tions of the Old World, which he acquired at this period, was subsequently of great use to him in his researches in the New Continent. An expedition of discovery to the southern hemisphere under the direction of Captain Baudiii, then preparing in France, and with which MM. Michaux and Bonpland were to be associated as na- turalists, held out to him the hope of gratifying his desire of exploring unknown regions. But the war Interference wliicli broke out in Germany and Italy compelled the government to withdraw the funds allotted to this cnterpi'ise. Becoming acquainted with a Swedish con- sul who happened to pass through Paris with the view of embarking at Marsiillcs on a mission to Algiers, he resolved to embrace the opportunity thus offered of visiting Africa, in order to examine the lofty chain of mountains in the empire of f.Iorocco, and ultimately to join the body of scientific men attached to the French army in Kgypt. Accompanied by his friend Bonpland, lie tiicrefore betook himself to Marseilles, where he waited for two months the arrival of the frigate which was to convey the consul to his destination. At length, learning that this vessel had been injured by a storm, lie resolved to p;us» the v.'inter in Spain, in hopes of findiuL' another tiie following spring.

On his way to Madrid, be deti rmined the geographical position of several important parts, and ascertained the height of the central plain of Ciistile. In March 1799

ith liii olaiis.

V'iidl to Maurid.

OBTAINS LEAVE TO VISIT SPANISH COLOMKS. 21

he was presented at the court of Aranjucz, and gra- chai>. u ciously received by the king, to Avhom he explained pian~of~ the motives which induced him to undertake a voyage ^''^'t ^" to the New Continent. Being seconded in his applica- tion by the representations of an enlightened minister, Don Mariano Luis de Urquijo, he to his great joy ob- tained leave to visit and explore, without impediment or restriction, all the Spanish territories in America. The impatience of the travellers to take advantage of the permission thus granted did not allow them to bestow much time upon preparations ; and about the middle of May they left Madrid, crossed part of Old Castile, Leon, and Galicia, and betook themselves to Corunna, whence they were to sail for the island of Cuba.

According to the observations made by our travellers. Observations the interior of Spain consists of an elevated table-land, "* ^'^"'' formed of secondary deposites, — sandstone, gypsum, rock-salt, and Jura limestone. The climate of the Castiles is much colder tlian that of Toulon and Genoa, its mean temperature scarcely rising to 59° of Fahren- heit's thermometer. The central plain is surrounded by a low and narrow belt, in several parts of which the fan-palm, the date, the sugar-cane, the banana, and many plants common to Spain and the north of Africa, vegetate, without suffering from tlie severity of the winter. In the space included between the parallels of thirty-six and forty degrees of nortli latitude the mean temperature ranges from 62° to G8° Fahrenheit, and by a concurrence of favourable circumstances this section has become tlie jjrincipal scat of industry and intellectual cultivation.

Ascending from the shores of the Mediterranean, to- '''ain of La wards the elevated plains of La Mancha and the Castiles, one imagines that he sees far inland, in the extended precipices, the ancient coast of the Peninsula, — a cir- cumstance which brings to mind the traditions of the Samothracians and certain historical testimonies, accord- ing to which the bursting: of the waters through the

oo

AHKIVAI, AT COKUNNA.

DardanclK-s, while it enlarged the basin of the Mediter- ranean, overwhelmed the southern part of Europe. The high central plain just descrihcd would, it may be presumed, resist tlie effects of the inundation until the escape of the waters by the strait formed l)etween the Pillars of lli'rcules had gradually lowered the level of the Mediterianean, and thereby once more laid bare Upper Egypt on the one hand, and on the other the fertile valleys of Tarragon, Valentia, and Mureia.

From Astoi-ga to Corunna the mountains gradually rise, the secondary strata disappear l)y degrees, and the transition- rocks which succeed announce tiie proximity of primitive formations. Large mountains of gray wacke and gray wacke-slate present themselves. In the vici- nity of the latter town are granitic summits which extend to Cape Ortegal, and which might seem, with those of Brittany and Cornwall, to have once formed a chain of mountains that has l)een broken up and sub- mersed. This rock is characterized by large and beautiful crystals of felspar, and contains tin-ore, which is worked with much labour and little profit by the Galicians.

On arriving at Corunna, they found the port block- aded by the English, for the purpose of interrupting the communication between the mother-country and the American colonies. The principal secretary of state had recommended them to Don Raliiel Clavigo, recentl}' appointed director-general of the maritime posts, who neglected nothing that could render their residence agreeable, and advised them to enibark on board the corvette Pizarro bound for Ilavannah and Mexico. Instructions were given for the safe disposal of the iiistrunu-nts, and the captain was ordered to stop at TcncriHc so loni; as should be found necessary to en- able the travellers to visit the port of Orotava and n-scend the IVak.

During the few days of their detention, they occupied thcnisclvcs in j)r(i)aring the i)lants which they had collected, and in makiim sundry obsur\\».tioijs. Crossing

TEMPERATLRE OP THE SEA 23

to FciTol they made some interesting- experiments on CUAP. I. the temperature of the sea and the decrease of heat in KxperimentB the successive strata of the water. The thermometer '-^^ i'enol on the bank and near it was from 5-i'5^ to 55-9°, while in deep water it stood at 59° or 59-5°, the air being 55°. The fact that the proximity of a sand-bank is indicated by a rapid descent of the temperature of the sea at its surface, is of great importance for the safety of navi- gators ; for, although the use of the thermometer ought not to supersede that of the lead, variations of tempera- ture indicative of danger may be perceived by it long before the vessel reaches the shoal. A heavy swell from the north-west rendered it impossible to continue their experiments. It was produced by a storm at sea, and obliged the English vessels to retire from the coast, — a circumstance which induced our travellers speedily to embark their instruments and baggage, although they were prevented from sailing by a high westerly wind that continued for several days.

24

DEPAUTUUE FROM CORUNAA.

CHAPTER II.

Voyage from Corunna to Teneriffe.

Departure from Corunna — Currents of the Atlantic Ocean — Ma- rine Animals — Falling Stars — Swallows — Canary Islands— Lan- cerota — Fucus vitifolius — Causes of the Green Colour of Plants — La Graciosa— Stratified Basalt alternating^ with Marl — Hj-a- lite — ^Quartz Sand — Remarks on the Distance at which Mountains are visible at Sea, and the Causes by which it is modified — Land- iuir at Teneriffe.

lu^piirture from Co- runna.

tvcninc

lioriiuu ul •cu.

The wind having come round to the north-east, the Pizarro set sail on the afternoon of the 5th of June 1799, and after working out of the narrow passage passed the Tower of Hercules, or lighthouse of Corunna, at half-past six. Towards evening the wind increased, and the sea ran high. They directed their couree to the north-west, for the purpose of avoiding the English frigates which wore cruising off the coast, and about nine spied the fire of a fishing-liut at Si.'iitrga, which was tlie last oliject they bclield in the west of Europe. As tliey advanced, the light mingled itself witli the stars which rose on tlie horizon. " Our eyes," says Huinl)oldt, " remained involuntarily fixed upon it. Such impressions do not fode from tlie memory of tiiose wlio have undertaken long voyages at an age when the emotions of tlie heart are in full force. How many recollections are awakened in tite imagination by a luminous jjoint, wliit-li in the middle of a dark night, appearing at intervals above the agitated waves, marks tliu shore of one's native land !"

EQUINOCTIAL CURRENT. 2i)

They were obliged to run under courses, and pro- Ciur. il cceded at the rate of ten knots, although the vessel was stoi-mv" not a fast sailer. In the morning of the 6th she rolled weather. so much that the fore topgallant-mast was carried away. On the 7th they were in the latitude of Cape Finisterre, belonging to the group of granitic rocks named the Sierra de Torinona, which is visible at sea to the distance of 59 miles. On the 8th at sunset, they discovered from the mast-head an English convoy ; and to avoid them they altered their course during the night. On the 9th they began to feel the effect of the great current which flows from the Azores towards the Straits of Gibraltar and tlie Canaries. Its direction was at first east by south ; but nearer the inlet it became due east, and its force was such as, between 37° and 30° lat., sometimes to carry the vessel, in twenty-four hours, from 21 to 80 miles eastward.

Between the tropics, especially from the coast of Equmoctiaj Senegal to the Caribbean Sea, there is a stream that '=^"^°'- always flows from east to west, and which is named the Equinoctial Current. Its mean rapidity may be esti- mated at ten or eleven miles in twenty-four hours. This movement of the waters, which is also observed in the Pacific Ocean, having a direction contrary to that of the earth's rotation, is supposed to be connected with Supposed the latter only in so far as it changes into trade-winds <=™^^- those aerial currents from the poles, which, in the lower regions of the atmosphere, carry the cold air of the high latitudes towards the equator ; and it is to the general impulse which these winds give to the surface of the ocean that the phenomenon in question is to be attributed.

This current carries the waters of the Atlantic to- its effect wards the Mosq\iito and Honduras coasts, from which they move northwards, and passing into the Gulf of Mexico follow the bendings of the shore from Vera Cruz to the mouth of the Rio del Norte, and from thence to the mouths of the Mississipi)i and the shoals at

2(3

GULF STHKAM.

Oiance of cuurse.

ciiAi'. II. the southern extremity of Florida. After ])en'orming foi.r5e"oi- this circuit, it again directs itself northward, rushing tl.e cuiTtnt with great impetuosity througli the Straits of Bahama. At the end of these narrows, in the parallel of Cape Canaveral, the flow, which rushes onward like a torrent sometimes at the rate of five miles an hour, runs to the north-east. Its velocity diminishes and its breadth enlarges as it proceeds northward. Between Cayo Biscaino and the Bank of Bahama the width is only 52 miles, while in 285^ of lat. it is 5'J ; and in the parallel of Charlestown, opposite Cape Ilenlopen, it is from 138 to 173 miles, the rapidity being from three to five miles an hour where the stream is narrow, and only one mile as it advances towards the north. To the east of Boston and in the meridian of Halifax the current is nearly 270 miles broad. Here it suddenly turns towards the east ; its western margin touching the extremity of the great bank of Newfoundland. From this to the Azores it continues to flow to the E. and E.S.E., still retaining part of the impulse which it had received nearly 3500 miles distant in the Straits of Florida. In the mer"dian of the Isles of Corvo and Flores, the most western of the Azores, it is not less tiian 552 miles in breadth. From the Azores it directs itself towards the Straits of Gibraltar, the island of Madeira, and the Canary Isles. To the south of Ma- deira, we can distinctly follow its motion to the S.E. and S.S.E. bearing on the sliores of Africa, between Capes Cantin and Bojador. Cape Blanco, which, next to Cape "N'erd, farther to the south, is the most promi- nent part of that coast, seems again to influence the direction of the stream ; and in this parallel it mixes witii the great equinoctial current already described.

In tliis maimer the waters of the Atlantic, between the parallels of 11° and -13°, are carried round in a continual whirliwol, which lIuml)ol(lt calculates must take two years and ten months to perform its circuit of 13,1 18 miles. This great current is named the Gulf-

Clrcnlt of tlic <fcc&n currenta

IMARINE ANI.MALS — MEDl'S.E. 2/

stream. Off the coast of Newfoundland a branch scpa- chap, il rates from it, and runs from S.W. to N.E. towards the coasts of Europe.

From Corunna to 36° of latitude, our travellers had Meausae. scarcely seen any other animals than terns (or sea- swallows) and a few dolphins; but on the 11th June they entered a zone in which the whole sea was covered with a prodigious quantity of medusae. The vessel was almost becalmed ; but the mollusca advanced towards the south-east with a rapidity equal to four times that of the current, and continued to pass nearly three quarters of an hour, after which only a few scattered individuals were seen. Among these animals they recognised the Medusa uurita of Baster, the M. pelagica of Bosc, and a third approaching in its characters to the M. hysocelia, which is distinguished by its yellowish-brown colour, and by having its tentacula longer than the body. Several of them were four inches in diameter, and the bright reflection from their bodies contrasted pleasantly with the a/Aire tint of the sea.

On the morning of the 13th June, in lat. 34° 33', Daffj-sa they observed large quantities of the Dagysa no'Mta, of ""'"'^ which several had been seen among the medusae, and which consist of little transparent gelatinous sacs, ex- tending to fourteen lines, with a diameter of two or three, and open at both ends. These cylinders are longitudinally agglutinated like the cells of a honey- comb, and form strings from six to eight inches in length. They observed, after it became dark, that none of the three species of medusa which they had collected emit- ^^mission of ted light unless they were slightly shaken. When a "^ very irritable individual is placed on a tin plate, and the latter is struck with a piece of metal, the vibrations of the tin are sufficient to make the animal shine. Sometimes, on galvanizing medusae, the phosphorescence appears at the moment when the chain closes, although the exciters are not in direct contact with the body of the subject. The fingers, after touching it, remain luminous for two or three minutes. Wood, on being

28 l-ALLING STARS — SWALLOW.

CHAP IL rubbed with a medusa, becomes luminous, and after the Phosphor- phosphorescence lias ceased it may be rekindled by i-sience pro- passing the dry liand over it ; but when the light is a

second time extinguished it cannot be rcjjroduced. Failing Between tlie island of Madeira and the coast of Africa,

*"'"'*■ they were struck by tlic prodigious quantity of falling

stars, which continued to increase as they advanced soutliward. These meteors, Humboldt remarks, are more common and more luminous in certain regions of the earth than in others. He has nowhere seen them more frequent than in tlie vicinity of the volcanoes of Quito, and in tliat part of the South Sea wliicli washes the shores of Guatimala. According to the oliservations of Benzenberg and Brandes, many falling stars noticed

iiei«ht of in Europe were only 03,950 yards, or a little more than

meteors. . . ; , "

thirty-six miles high ; and one was measured, the ele- vation of which did not exceed 29,843 yards, or about seventeen miles. In warm climates, and especially between the tropics, they often leave behind them a train which remains luminous for twelve or fifteen seconds. At other times they seem to burst, and se- parate into a number of sparks. They are generally much lower than in the north of Europe. These meteors can be observed only when the sky is clear ; and perhaps none has ever been seen beneath a cloud. According to the observations of M. Arago, they usually folluw the same course lor several hours ; and in this case their direction is that of the wind.

SwiUow. Wlien the voyagers were 138 miles to the east of

Madeira, a common swallow {^Ilirundo rustiai) perched on the topsail-yard, and was caught. What could induce a bird, asks our traveller, to fly so far at this sen'ifjn, and in cahn weather J In the ex])edition of Entrecasteaiix, a swallow was also seen at the distance of 207 miles i)if Cajx! Blanco ; but this liappened about tlie end of October, and M. Labillardiere imagined that it liad newly arrived from Juirope.

The I'iz.irro had l>een orden d to toucli at Lancerota, one of the Canaries, to ascertain whether the harbour lA

ISLAND OF LANCKKOTA. 29

Santa Cruz in TenerifFe was blockaded by the English ; chap. II. and on the IGth, in the afternoon, the seamen discovered , ,„,"~~»„ land, which proved to be that island. As they advanced, tliey saw first the island of Fortevontura, famous for the number o-f camels reared upon it, and soon after the smaller one of Lobos, Spending part of the night on deck, the naturalists viewed the volcanic summits ol Lancerota illumined by the moon, and enjoyed the beautiful serenity of the atmosphere. After a time, great black clouds, rising behind the volcano, shrouded at intervals the moon and the constellation of Scorpio. They observed lights carried about on the shore, pro- bably by fishermen, and having been employed occa- sionally during their passage in reading some of the old Spanish voyages, these moving fires recalled to their imagination those seen on the island of Guanahani on the memorable night of the discovery of the New World.

In passing through the archipelago of small islands, Configia- situated to the north of Lancerota, they were struck by coasts! ^^^ the configuration of the coasts, which resembled the banks of the Rhine near Bonn. It is a remarkable cir- cumstance, our author observes, that, while the forms of animals and plants exhibit the greatest diversity in different climates, the rocky masses present the same appearances in both hemispheres. In the Canary Isles, as in Auvergne, in the Mittelgebirge in Bohemia, in Mexico, and on the banks of the Ganges, the trap for- mation displays a symmetrical arrangement of the mountains, exhibiting truncated cones and graduated platforms.

The whole western part of Lancerota announces the Voican character of a country recently deranged by volcanic '^"'^^^ action, every part being black, arid, and destitute of soil. The Abbe' Viera relates, that in 1730 more than half of the island changed its appearance. The great volcano ravaged the most fertile and best cultivated district, and entirely destroyed nine villages. Its erup- tions were preceded by an earthquake, and violent

30

COI.OIR OF MARINE PLANTS.